Achieving the perfect hair tone involves a delicate balance of chemistry, timing, and the right products. Among these, the developer plays a pivotal role, especially when working with toners. But selecting the correct volume developer for your toner can feel like navigating a complex equation. This guide will break down everything you need to know, from understanding developer volumes to choosing the ideal one for your specific hair goals.
Understanding Developer and Its Role
Developer, also known as hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), is a crucial component in the hair coloring and toning process. It’s the catalyst that activates the dye or toner, allowing it to penetrate the hair shaft and deposit color. The “volume” of the developer indicates the concentration of hydrogen peroxide. Higher volumes contain a greater percentage of hydrogen peroxide, leading to more lift (lightening) and color deposit. Choosing the wrong volume can result in unwanted color, hair damage, or a lack of desired results.
The Science Behind Developer Action
The developer works by oxidizing the natural melanin (pigment) in your hair. This process is what lightens the hair. Simultaneously, it opens the hair cuticle, allowing the toner molecules to enter and deposit color. The higher the volume, the more melanin is oxidized, and the more the cuticle is opened. However, excessive oxidation and cuticle opening can lead to dryness, breakage, and long-term hair damage.
Different Developer Volumes and Their Uses
Developer volumes are typically expressed as 5, 10, 20, 30, and 40. Each volume has a specific strength and purpose, and using the wrong one can significantly impact your hair’s health and the final color result.
5 Volume Developer
A 5 volume developer contains a very low percentage of hydrogen peroxide. It’s primarily used for depositing color only, with minimal to no lift. It’s the gentlest option and ideal for situations where you want to enhance your existing hair color without lightening it. Think of it as a color refresher or gloss.
10 Volume Developer
A 10 volume developer offers a slight lift, but primarily deposits color. It is a popular choice for toning pre-lightened hair, especially when aiming for subtle changes or maintaining the current level of lightness. It’s generally considered the safest option for toning because it minimizes the risk of damage. It’s also suitable for covering or blending grey hairs, but only when minimal lift is required.
20 Volume Developer
A 20 volume developer provides moderate lift and color deposit. It is the most commonly used volume for permanent hair color and is sometimes used for toning if a slight lift is needed to achieve the desired tone. However, it’s generally not recommended for toning pre-lightened hair, as it can be too strong and lead to unwanted brassiness or uneven color.
30 and 40 Volume Developers
30 and 40 volume developers are high-lift developers and are rarely, if ever, used for toning. They are primarily used for lightening virgin hair or achieving significant color changes. Using these volumes with toner can cause significant damage and result in unpredictable, often undesirable, color results.
Choosing the Right Developer Volume for Toner
The ideal developer volume for toner depends on several factors, including your starting hair color, the level of lightness you’ve achieved through pre-lightening, and your desired end result. Understanding these factors is crucial for achieving a beautiful, healthy-looking tone.
Assessing Your Hair’s Condition and Level
Before selecting a developer, assess the condition of your hair. Is it dry, damaged, or prone to breakage? Damaged hair is more susceptible to further damage from developer, so a lower volume is always recommended. Also, determine your hair’s current level (1-10, with 1 being black and 10 being the lightest blonde). This will help you understand how much lift, if any, you need to achieve your desired tone.
Consider Your Desired Tone and Undertones
Different toners require different levels of lift. If you’re simply trying to neutralize brassiness in already light blonde hair, a 10 volume developer might be sufficient. However, if you’re trying to achieve a cooler, ashier tone from a more golden blonde, you might need a slightly stronger developer (still, 10 volume is ideal to avoid damage). Also, consider the underlying pigments in your hair. Toner can only neutralize or deposit color; it cannot lift underlying warm tones without the help of developer.
Toning Pre-Lightened Hair
When toning pre-lightened hair (hair that has already been bleached or lightened), a low-volume developer is almost always the best choice. The goal is to deposit color without causing further damage or lifting. 10 volume developer is the gold standard for toning pre-lightened hair. Sometimes, a 5 volume developer can be used for very delicate hair or when simply refreshing the tone.
Toning Darker Hair
Toning darker hair is a bit more complex. If your hair is naturally dark (level 6 or lower) and you want to achieve a noticeable tone change, you will likely need to pre-lighten your hair first. Toner alone, even with a higher volume developer, won’t significantly alter the color of dark hair. If you have highlights or balayage and want to tone them, a 10 volume developer might be sufficient, depending on the level of lightness.
The Importance of Strand Tests
Before applying toner to your entire head of hair, always perform a strand test. This involves applying the toner and developer mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair to see how it reacts. A strand test will help you determine if the developer volume is appropriate, if the toner is achieving the desired color, and if the processing time is correct. Strand tests are crucial for preventing unwanted surprises and minimizing the risk of damage.
How to Perform a Strand Test
Choose a strand of hair that is hidden underneath or at the nape of your neck. Apply the toner and developer mixture to the strand, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Process for the recommended time, or until you achieve the desired color. Rinse and dry the strand. Evaluate the color and condition of the hair. If you’re happy with the results, you can proceed with applying the toner to your entire head. If not, adjust the developer volume, processing time, or toner formula as needed.
Mixing Ratios and Application Techniques
The mixing ratio of toner and developer is crucial for achieving the desired results. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the toner packaging. The typical ratio is 1:2 (one part toner to two parts developer), but this can vary depending on the brand and product. Using the wrong mixing ratio can affect the color deposit, processing time, and overall outcome.
Application Techniques for Even Toning
Apply the toner evenly to damp, towel-dried hair. Use a tint brush to saturate each strand, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends. If you’re toning highlights or balayage, be careful not to overlap the toner onto the previously lightened hair, as this can cause banding or uneven color. Once you’ve applied the toner to all of your hair, process for the recommended time. Check the color periodically to ensure you’re achieving the desired result.
Troubleshooting Common Toning Issues
Even with careful planning, toning can sometimes go wrong. Here are some common issues and how to troubleshoot them.
Brassiness After Toning
If your hair is still brassy after toning, it could be due to several factors: the toner wasn’t strong enough, the developer volume was too low, the processing time was too short, or the underlying pigments were too strong. To fix this, you can try using a stronger toner, increasing the developer volume slightly (with caution), or processing for a longer time. You might also need to pre-lighten your hair to a lighter level before toning again.
Uneven Toning
Uneven toning can be caused by several factors, including uneven application, inconsistent porosity, or overlapping toner onto previously lightened hair. To fix this, you can try spot-toning the areas that are darker or lighter, or using a color remover to even out the base color before toning again.
Over-Toned Hair
Over-toned hair can look muddy, dull, or even green or purple. This is usually caused by using a toner that is too strong or processing for too long. To fix this, you can try using a clarifying shampoo to remove some of the toner, or applying a color remover to lift the toner. You can also try using a demi-permanent gloss to add warmth and dimension back to your hair.
Protecting Your Hair After Toning
Toning, even with a low-volume developer, can still cause some damage to your hair. It’s important to take steps to protect and nourish your hair after toning to prevent dryness, breakage, and color fading.
Using Color-Safe Shampoos and Conditioners
Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners that are specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are gentler than regular shampoos and conditioners and won’t strip your hair of color.
Deep Conditioning Treatments
Apply a deep conditioning treatment once a week to replenish moisture and strengthen your hair. Look for products that contain ingredients like keratin, argan oil, or shea butter.
Heat Protection
Minimize the use of heat styling tools, such as flat irons and curling irons, as heat can damage and fade your hair color. When you do use heat styling tools, always apply a heat protectant spray to shield your hair from damage.
Avoiding Sun Exposure
Prolonged sun exposure can also fade your hair color. Wear a hat or use a UV protectant spray when you’re spending time outdoors.
The Takeaway
Choosing the right developer volume for your toner is a crucial step in achieving the perfect hair tone. By understanding the different volumes and their uses, assessing your hair’s condition and level, and considering your desired end result, you can select the ideal developer for your specific needs. Always perform a strand test before applying toner to your entire head of hair, and take steps to protect and nourish your hair after toning to maintain its health and color. Remember, when in doubt, it’s always better to err on the side of caution and choose a lower volume developer to minimize the risk of damage. Ultimately, a 10 volume developer is usually the best and safest choice for most toning applications on pre-lightened hair.
What is a developer and why is it necessary for toner?
Developer, also known as peroxide, is a crucial component used alongside hair toner. It’s an oxidizing agent that opens the hair cuticle, allowing the toner’s pigment to penetrate and deposit color effectively. Without developer, the toner wouldn’t be able to alter the hair’s underlying shade or neutralize unwanted tones.
Think of developer as the vehicle that carries the toner into the hair shaft. It activates the toner’s color and allows it to chemically bind to the hair, resulting in the desired color transformation. The volume of developer determines how much the cuticle is opened, impacting the level of lift or color deposition.
How do developer volumes differ and what does each achieve?
Developer volumes range from low (5-10 volume) to high (40 volume), each serving a distinct purpose. Lower volumes like 5 or 10 volume are primarily used for depositing color or toning previously lightened hair without lifting. They gently open the cuticle, minimizing damage.
Higher volumes, such as 20, 30, or 40 volume, provide more lift, enabling the hair to lighten further. These are typically used for permanent hair color or achieving significant lightening. When using toner, a lower volume is usually preferred to avoid unnecessary damage or over-processing the hair.
What volume developer is generally recommended for toning hair?
The universally recommended developer volume for toning is 10 volume. This low volume developer is gentle enough to deposit color without significantly lifting the hair’s existing shade. It’s ideal for neutralizing unwanted tones, such as brassiness, in pre-lightened hair.
Using a 10 volume developer ensures that the toner deposits pigment evenly and effectively without causing excessive damage or dryness. It allows for subtle color adjustments, leaving your hair with a smooth, even, and healthy finish. It’s the sweet spot for achieving the desired tone without compromising hair integrity.
How do I choose the right developer volume for my specific toning needs?
Consider your hair’s current condition and the desired outcome when selecting your developer volume. If your hair is already light and healthy, and you only need to neutralize slight brassiness, a 5 or 10 volume developer is sufficient. If you’re aiming for a more drastic color shift or have resistant hair, a 20 volume might be necessary, but proceed with caution.
Evaluate the level of lift required. If no lift is needed, stick with a lower volume. Also, factor in your hair’s porosity. Highly porous hair absorbs color quickly, so a lower volume is generally safer to prevent over-toning. Always strand test the developer and toner combination before applying it to your entire head.
Can I use a higher volume developer (e.g., 20, 30, or 40) with toner?
While technically possible, using a higher volume developer (20, 30, or 40) with toner is generally not recommended unless you’re aiming to lift the hair’s base color significantly. Toners are designed to deposit color, not lighten, and using a higher volume developer can lead to unwanted lifting, brassiness, and potential damage.
Higher volumes can open the hair cuticle too much, leading to increased porosity and breakage. It can also result in unpredictable color results, as the toner may not be able to effectively neutralize underlying tones. It’s always best to err on the side of caution and use a lower volume developer for optimal toning.
What happens if I use the wrong developer volume with toner?
Using the wrong developer volume with toner can lead to several undesirable outcomes. Using a volume that’s too low (e.g., no developer) might result in the toner not depositing color properly, leading to minimal or no noticeable change in your hair’s tone.
Conversely, using a developer volume that’s too high can lift your base color, creating unwanted warmth or brassiness. It can also damage your hair, making it dry, brittle, and prone to breakage. In some cases, it could even result in uneven color distribution or an undesirable shade.
How does hair porosity affect my choice of developer volume for toner?
Hair porosity significantly impacts how your hair absorbs and processes toner and developer. High porosity hair, which is damaged and has open cuticles, absorbs color quickly and easily. This means you should use a lower volume developer (like 5 or 10) to prevent over-toning or color grabbing.
Low porosity hair, with tightly closed cuticles, resists moisture and color absorption. While it might seem logical to use a higher volume developer, it’s still best to stick to 10 volume and potentially increase processing time slightly. Higher volumes can still cause damage, and longer processing with a lower volume is often safer and more effective for low porosity hair.