Hair coloring is a popular way to express personal style, cover gray strands, or simply refresh one’s look. However, the process often involves chemicals that can potentially damage hair. One key component of hair coloring is the developer, and a common question is: Is 20 volume developer less damaging than higher volumes? Let’s delve into the intricacies of hair developers and their effects on hair health.
Understanding Hair Developers and Their Role
Developers, also known as hydrogen peroxide, are oxidizing agents used in hair coloring and bleaching. Their primary function is to open the hair cuticle, allowing color molecules to penetrate the hair shaft. They also lighten the natural hair pigment, preparing the hair to receive the new color. The volume of a developer indicates its strength and the amount of oxygen it releases.
The Science Behind Developer Volumes
Developer volumes are expressed as numbers, such as 10, 20, 30, and 40. These numbers represent the percentage of hydrogen peroxide in the solution and the amount of oxygen released. For instance, a 20 volume developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide and releases a certain amount of oxygen. This oxygen is what lifts the hair’s cuticle and allows for color deposition.
How Developers Interact with Hair
When a developer is mixed with hair color or lightener, it triggers a chemical reaction. This reaction involves oxidizing the melanin (the pigment responsible for hair color) and depositing the new color molecules into the hair shaft. The higher the volume of the developer, the more aggressively it lifts the cuticle and lightens the hair.
20 Volume Developer: A Closer Look
20 volume developer is a mid-strength option commonly used for various hair coloring purposes. It’s often considered a “sweet spot” for many hair types and desired results.
What is 20 Volume Developer Used For?
20 volume developer is versatile and can be used for:
- Covering gray hair: It effectively opens the cuticle to allow the color to penetrate and cover gray strands.
- Depositing color: When you want to go darker or maintain your current hair color, a 20 volume developer can deposit the color without significant lightening.
- Slightly lifting color: It can lift the hair by one to two levels, making it suitable for subtle changes in hair color.
- Toning: 20 volume developer can be used with toners to neutralize unwanted tones, such as brassiness, in blonde hair.
The Perceived Damage of 20 Volume Developer
Many believe that 20 volume developer is less damaging compared to higher volumes. This perception stems from the fact that it has a lower concentration of hydrogen peroxide and lifts the cuticle less aggressively.
Comparing 20 Volume Developer to Higher Volumes
To understand the damage potential of 20 volume developer, it’s crucial to compare it to higher volumes like 30 and 40.
30 Volume Developer: When and Why It’s Used
30 volume developer contains a higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide (9%) and lifts the hair by two to three levels. It’s typically used for:
- Lightening hair: When you want to go significantly lighter, such as from dark brown to light brown or medium blonde.
- Covering resistant gray hair: For gray hair that doesn’t easily absorb color, a 30 volume developer may be necessary.
- Achieving brighter colors: It can help to create a brighter and more vibrant color result.
40 Volume Developer: The Strongest Option
40 volume developer has the highest concentration of hydrogen peroxide (12%) and lifts the hair by three to four levels. It’s generally used for:
- Dramatic lightening: When you want to achieve a significant color change, such as going from dark brown to blonde.
- Lifting multiple shades: It’s suitable for lifting the hair several shades in one process.
- Difficult to lift hair: It’s used on hair that is naturally very dark or resistant to lightening.
Damage Comparison: 20 vs. 30 vs. 40 Volume
The higher the volume of the developer, the more damage it can potentially cause. 40 volume developer is the most damaging because it aggressively lifts the cuticle, leading to:
- Increased porosity: The hair becomes more porous, making it prone to dryness and breakage.
- Weakened hair structure: The protein structure of the hair can be damaged, leading to weaker and more brittle hair.
- Dryness and frizz: The hair loses its natural moisture and becomes dry and frizzy.
- Increased risk of breakage: The hair is more susceptible to breakage and split ends.
30 volume developer is less damaging than 40 volume but still carries a higher risk of damage compared to 20 volume.
20 volume developer is generally considered the least damaging option among the three. It lifts the cuticle less aggressively, minimizing the risk of porosity, dryness, and breakage.
Factors Influencing Hair Damage from Developers
While the volume of the developer plays a significant role in hair damage, other factors also contribute to the overall impact on hair health.
Hair Type and Condition
The natural texture and condition of your hair significantly influence how it reacts to developers. Fine, thin hair is more prone to damage than thick, coarse hair. Damaged or chemically treated hair (e.g., permed, relaxed, or previously colored) is also more vulnerable.
Processing Time
The longer the developer remains on the hair, the more damage it can cause. Following the manufacturer’s instructions and avoiding over-processing is crucial. Regularly checking the hair’s condition during processing can help prevent excessive damage.
The Quality of the Hair Color or Lightener
The quality of the hair color or lightener used in conjunction with the developer also affects the outcome. High-quality products often contain conditioning agents that help protect the hair during the coloring process.
Pre and Post-Coloring Care
Preparing the hair before coloring and providing proper aftercare can significantly minimize damage. Using deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and avoiding heat styling can help maintain hair health.
Minimizing Damage When Using 20 Volume Developer
Even though 20 volume developer is considered less damaging, it’s still essential to take precautions to protect your hair.
Strand Test
Before applying the developer and color to your entire head, perform a strand test. This allows you to assess how your hair reacts to the mixture and adjust the processing time accordingly.
Apply to Healthy Hair
Ensure your hair is in good condition before coloring. Avoid coloring damaged or over-processed hair until it has recovered.
Use a Protein Treatment Before Coloring
Applying a protein treatment a few days before coloring can strengthen the hair and make it more resilient to damage.
Deep Condition After Coloring
After coloring, use a deep conditioning treatment to replenish moisture and repair any damage.
Avoid Overlapping
When applying color to previously colored hair, avoid overlapping the developer onto already processed areas. This can lead to over-processing and breakage.
Use a Low Heat Setting When Styling
Minimize heat styling and use a low heat setting when blow-drying, straightening, or curling your hair.
The Verdict: Is 20 Volume Developer Less Damaging?
Yes, generally speaking, 20 volume developer is less damaging than 30 or 40 volume developers. Its lower concentration of hydrogen peroxide means it lifts the hair cuticle less aggressively, reducing the risk of dryness, breakage, and other forms of damage. However, it’s essential to remember that any chemical process can potentially damage the hair. The overall impact depends on various factors, including hair type, condition, processing time, and the quality of the products used.
Choosing the right developer volume depends on your desired results and hair health. If you’re unsure which volume to use, it’s always best to consult a professional hairstylist. They can assess your hair type and condition and recommend the most suitable option to achieve your desired look while minimizing damage.
Ultimately, the key to healthy, colored hair is to use the right products, follow proper techniques, and prioritize hair care before, during, and after the coloring process. Even with the “gentler” 20 volume developer, diligent hair care is non-negotiable.
Is 20 Volume Developer Really Less Damaging Than Higher Volumes?
Yes, generally speaking, a 20 volume developer is considered less damaging than higher volume developers like 30 or 40 volume. This is because the volume number refers to the percentage of hydrogen peroxide in the developer. A lower percentage of hydrogen peroxide means less cuticle lifting and therefore, less potential for structural damage to the hair shaft. This translates to less dryness, breakage, and overall weaker hair after the coloring or lightening process.
However, it’s crucial to understand that any chemical process, even with a 20 volume developer, can cause some degree of damage. Factors such as the health of your hair before the process, the duration the developer is left on your hair, and the specific hair dye or lightener used all play a role in the overall impact. Proper aftercare, including moisturizing treatments and avoiding heat styling, is essential to mitigate any damage, even with a lower volume developer.
What Does 20 Volume Developer Actually Do to My Hair?
A 20 volume developer opens the hair cuticle to allow the hair dye or lightener to penetrate and deposit color or lift existing pigment. The hydrogen peroxide in the developer oxidizes the melanin in your hair, leading to the lightening effect. 20 volume is typically used for depositing color, covering grays, and achieving a lift of 1-2 levels, making it a relatively gentle option for altering hair color.
While 20 volume opens the cuticle, it does so less aggressively than higher volumes. This reduced cuticle lifting helps maintain the integrity of the hair’s structure, minimizing protein loss and preventing excessive dryness. However, repeated use of any developer, even 20 volume, can still weaken the hair over time. It is vital to space out coloring sessions and prioritize hair health through proper conditioning and protective styling.
When Should I Use 20 Volume Developer Instead of a Higher Volume?
You should consider using a 20 volume developer when your goal is to deposit color, cover grays effectively, or achieve a subtle lift of 1-2 levels. It’s a good choice if your hair is already relatively light or you’re aiming for a darker shade. Additionally, if your hair is fine, damaged, or you’re concerned about excessive damage, 20 volume is a safer option compared to higher volumes.
Furthermore, if you’re using a toner or gloss to neutralize unwanted tones or add shine, a 20 volume developer is often sufficient. These products typically don’t require significant lifting, so a gentler developer like 20 volume can deliver the desired results without compromising hair health. Always follow the specific instructions provided with your chosen hair dye or lightener, as they will recommend the appropriate developer volume for the intended outcome.
Can 20 Volume Developer Damage My Hair Even If Used Correctly?
Yes, even when used correctly, a 20 volume developer can still cause some degree of damage to your hair. While it’s less damaging than higher volumes, the hydrogen peroxide still interacts with the hair’s protein structure, leading to some cuticle lifting and potential protein loss. This can result in dryness, brittleness, and increased susceptibility to breakage over time.
The extent of the damage depends on various factors, including your hair’s pre-existing condition, the length of time the developer is left on, and your post-coloring care routine. To minimize damage, it’s crucial to perform a strand test before applying the developer to your entire head, use a deep conditioner or hair mask after coloring, and avoid excessive heat styling or harsh chemicals in the weeks following the process.
How Can I Minimize Damage When Using 20 Volume Developer?
One of the best ways to minimize damage when using a 20 volume developer is to ensure your hair is in optimal condition beforehand. This involves deep conditioning regularly, using protein treatments if needed, and avoiding heat styling or other damaging practices. Hydrated and healthy hair is less susceptible to damage from chemical processes.
Another key factor is following the instructions provided with your hair dye or lightener precisely. Do not leave the developer on for longer than recommended, as this can increase the risk of damage. After coloring, use a sulfate-free shampoo and a moisturizing conditioner to replenish lost moisture. Incorporating leave-in conditioners, hair oils, or heat protectants into your routine can also help protect your hair from further damage.
What Happens if I Use 20 Volume Developer When a Higher Volume is Recommended?
If you use a 20 volume developer when a higher volume is recommended, you might not achieve the desired level of lift or color saturation. This is because 20 volume is designed for gentle lifting and depositing color, and it might not be strong enough to effectively lighten darker hair or achieve significant color changes. The result could be uneven color, brassiness, or a color that fades quickly.
In some cases, attempting to compensate for the weaker developer by leaving it on for a longer duration can lead to uneven results and increased risk of damage. It’s always best to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the specific hair dye or lightener you’re using. If you’re unsure which developer volume to choose, consult with a professional hairstylist who can assess your hair and recommend the appropriate product for your desired outcome.
Is 20 Volume Developer Suitable for Covering Gray Hair?
Yes, 20 volume developer is generally suitable for covering gray hair, especially if the grays are minimal to moderate. It provides enough lift to open the hair cuticle and allow the color to penetrate and deposit effectively, resulting in good gray coverage. However, the success of gray coverage also depends on the type of hair dye used and the hair’s overall resistance to color.
For stubborn or heavily gray hair, you might need to adjust your approach. Some stylists recommend using a slightly warmer base color or pre-softening the gray hair before applying the dye. Pre-softening involves opening the cuticle of the gray hair to make it more receptive to the color. Ultimately, 20 volume often delivers satisfactory gray coverage, but consulting a professional can provide tailored solutions for challenging cases.