The quest for the perfect hair color is a journey filled with potential pitfalls. One of the most common stumbling blocks? Unwanted orange tones. Whether you’re a seasoned salon-goer or a DIY hair enthusiast, understanding how to combat these brassy hues is crucial. And that’s where violet toner comes in. But does it really cancel out orange? Let’s dive deep into the science, application, and alternatives to mastering color correction.
Understanding Color Theory: The Foundation of Toning
Before we jump into the specifics of violet toner, it’s essential to grasp the basics of color theory. Color theory, at its core, explains how colors interact with each other. Think back to art class and the color wheel.
The Color Wheel: Your Hair Color Bible
The color wheel is a visual representation of colors, arranged according to their chromatic relationship. It showcases primary colors (red, yellow, blue), secondary colors (orange, green, violet – created by mixing two primary colors), and tertiary colors (created by mixing a primary and a secondary color). The key takeaway for hair color correction lies in complementary colors.
Complementary Colors: The Key to Neutralization
Complementary colors are those that sit opposite each other on the color wheel. When mixed, they neutralize each other, creating a neutral brown or gray. This principle is the foundation of color correction.
For example, red and green are complementary colors. Blue and orange are complementary colors. And, most importantly for our discussion, yellow and violet are complementary colors.
Understanding this relationship is paramount in understanding how violet toner works to combat unwanted brassiness in blonde or lightened hair.
Why Does Hair Turn Orange in the First Place?
Understanding the why behind orange tones is as important as knowing the how to fix them. Several factors contribute to the development of unwanted warmth.
Underlying Pigment
All hair contains underlying pigment. Darker hair contains more red and orange pigment, while lighter hair contains more yellow pigment. When you lighten your hair, you’re essentially lifting these pigments. The darker your natural hair, the more likely you are to encounter orange or red tones as the lightening process progresses.
Incomplete Lightening
Sometimes, the hair lightening process simply isn’t complete. If the bleach isn’t left on for long enough, or if the strength of the developer isn’t high enough, the underlying warm tones might not be fully lifted. This can result in a brassy orange or yellow hue.
Hard Water
Hard water, which contains high levels of minerals like calcium and magnesium, can deposit these minerals onto the hair shaft. These minerals can react with hair products and cause brassiness over time.
Sun Exposure
Prolonged exposure to the sun can also contribute to brassiness. UV rays can oxidize the hair, leading to unwanted warmth.
Violet Toner: Your Weapon Against Orange?
Now that we understand the basics of color theory and why orange tones appear, let’s focus on violet toner. Does it truly work?
How Violet Toner Works
Violet toner, as the name suggests, contains violet pigment. As we learned earlier, violet is the complementary color to yellow on the color wheel. Therefore, violet toner is primarily designed to neutralize yellow tones.
However, many toners also contain blue pigments, which help to counteract orange tones as blue and orange are also complementary. The effectiveness of a violet toner on orange tones depends heavily on the intensity of the orange and the concentration of blue pigments in the toner.
When Violet Toner Works Best
Violet toner is most effective on pale yellow to light orange tones. If your hair is a deep, vibrant orange, a violet toner alone might not be sufficient. It might only slightly neutralize the orange, resulting in a muddy or uneven color.
When Violet Toner Might Not Be Enough
For more intense orange tones, you’ll likely need to use a stronger toner that is formulated for orange correction. This might involve using a blue-based toner or a color corrector specifically designed to neutralize orange. In some cases, pre-toning the hair with a blue shampoo or conditioner can help before applying the toner.
Choosing the Right Violet Toner
Not all violet toners are created equal. Several factors influence their effectiveness.
Pigment Strength
The concentration of violet pigment in a toner is crucial. Some toners are more diluted than others. For more noticeable results, opt for a toner with a higher pigment concentration.
Base Color
Toners come in different base colors, such as clear, violet, or blue. A toner with a violet or blue base will generally be more effective at neutralizing unwanted warmth.
Developer Volume
The developer volume you use with your toner also affects the outcome. A lower volume developer (e.g., 10 volume) is gentler and deposits more color, while a higher volume developer (e.g., 20 volume) lifts the hair slightly and deposits less color. For toning, a low-volume developer is typically recommended.
Ammonia vs. Ammonia-Free
Toners can be ammonia-based or ammonia-free. Ammonia-based toners lift the hair cuticle, allowing the toner to penetrate deeply, leading to more noticeable results. However, they can also be more damaging. Ammonia-free toners are gentler but may not be as effective on stubborn brassiness.
Applying Violet Toner: A Step-by-Step Guide
Proper application is key to achieving the desired results with violet toner.
Preparation
- Strand Test: Always perform a strand test before applying toner to your entire head. This will allow you to see how the toner affects your hair color and ensure you don’t end up with an undesirable result.
- Protect Your Skin: Wear gloves to protect your hands from staining. Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to your hairline and ears to prevent the toner from staining your skin.
- Prepare Your Hair: Ensure your hair is clean and damp. Towel-dry your hair thoroughly before applying the toner.
Application Process
- Mix the Toner: Mix the toner with the developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Apply Evenly: Apply the toner evenly to your hair, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends. Use a tint brush to ensure thorough coverage.
- Process: Leave the toner on for the recommended processing time, usually between 10 and 30 minutes. Check your hair frequently to monitor the color change.
- Rinse and Condition: Once the processing time is complete, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water. Follow with a moisturizing conditioner.
Alternatives to Violet Toner for Orange Tones
While violet toner is a valuable tool, it’s not always the best solution for every situation. Consider these alternatives.
Blue Shampoo and Conditioner
Blue shampoo and conditioner contain blue pigments that neutralize orange tones. They are a gentler option than toner and can be used regularly to maintain your hair color and prevent brassiness. These are best used on light to medium orange tones.
Color Depositing Masks
Color depositing masks deposit color onto the hair while also providing hydration. They are a good option for refreshing your hair color and neutralizing unwanted tones. These are available in a range of colors, including blue and violet.
Professional Color Correction
For severe orange tones or complex color correction, it’s best to consult a professional hairstylist. They have the expertise and products to achieve the desired results safely and effectively.
Hair Gloss
Hair gloss treatments deposit a sheer layer of color onto the hair, enhancing shine and neutralizing unwanted tones. They can be customized to address specific color concerns.
Maintaining Your Color After Toning
Once you’ve achieved your desired hair color, it’s important to maintain it.
Use Color-Safe Products
Use shampoos and conditioners specifically designed for color-treated hair. These products are gentler and will help prevent your color from fading.
Limit Heat Styling
Excessive heat styling can damage your hair and cause your color to fade. Use heat protectant sprays and limit your use of heat styling tools.
Protect Your Hair from the Sun
Sun exposure can cause your hair color to fade and become brassy. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when spending time outdoors.
Regular Touch-Ups
Depending on how quickly your hair grows and how frequently you wash it, you’ll need to touch up your color regularly. This might involve re-toning your hair or getting a professional color service.
In conclusion, violet toner primarily cancels out yellow tones but can also help neutralize light orange tones, especially when the formula contains blue pigments. The key to successful color correction lies in understanding color theory, choosing the right product for your specific needs, and following the instructions carefully. If you’re unsure, always consult a professional hairstylist.
What exactly does violet toner do, and how does it relate to canceling out orange tones?
Violet toner works by depositing violet pigment onto the hair shaft. This violet pigment neutralizes unwanted yellow and brassy tones in the hair. Since violet is directly opposite yellow on the color wheel, applying a violet-based product effectively counteracts and cancels out those warm, yellow hues, resulting in a cooler, more balanced blonde or lighter hair color.
Orange tones, a common problem especially when lightening darker hair, can also be partially addressed by violet toner, although it’s more effective on yellow. While violet isn’t a direct opposite of orange on the color wheel (that would be blue), it can still help to neutralize some of the orangey-yellow undertones that often contribute to an overall orange appearance, making the hair look less brassy and more neutral.
When is violet toner NOT effective for canceling out orange?
Violet toner is most effective on pale yellow tones. When dealing with intensely orange hair, the violet pigment in the toner might not be strong enough to completely neutralize the color. This is because the amount of violet pigment needed to counteract a strong orange tone would likely result in an uneven or ashy final color, and the toner itself may not deposit enough pigment to make a significant difference.
If you’re facing significantly orange tones after bleaching or coloring your hair, a more effective approach is to use a blue-based toner or a color corrector specifically formulated to neutralize orange. These products contain a higher concentration of blue pigment, which directly combats orange on the color wheel. Trying to overpower strong orange with violet toner can lead to a muddy or disappointing result.
How do I choose the right violet toner for my hair?
Selecting the correct violet toner depends heavily on your current hair color and the intensity of the brassy tones you’re trying to neutralize. If your hair is a pale blonde with minimal yellow tones, a milder violet toner or a purple shampoo might be sufficient. For more noticeable yellow tones, you’ll need a stronger toner with a higher concentration of violet pigment.
Consider your hair’s porosity, as highly porous hair tends to absorb toner more quickly, potentially leading to an uneven color. Always perform a strand test before applying the toner to your entire head to gauge how your hair reacts to the product and to ensure you achieve your desired shade. Also, pay attention to the level of developer required for the toner; a lower volume developer is generally recommended to prevent further lightening and damage.
Can I use purple shampoo instead of violet toner?
Purple shampoo and violet toner serve similar but distinct purposes in hair care. Purple shampoo is primarily designed to maintain blonde or lightened hair by counteracting mild yellow or brassy tones that develop over time between salon visits. It’s a gentle cleansing product that deposits a small amount of violet pigment with each use.
Violet toner, on the other hand, is a more potent color-correcting treatment that provides a significant deposit of violet pigment. It’s typically used after bleaching or highlighting to neutralize more pronounced yellow or orange tones and to achieve a specific desired shade of blonde. While purple shampoo can help prevent brassiness, it’s generally not strong enough to correct severely brassy or orange hair like a toner can.
What are some common mistakes people make when using violet toner?
One common mistake is not lightening the hair to a light enough level before applying violet toner. Toner works best on pre-lightened hair that is at least a level 8 or higher (pale yellow). Applying toner to hair that is too dark or too orange will likely result in an uneven or ineffective color correction, as the violet pigment will struggle to counteract the underlying warmth.
Another frequent error is leaving the toner on for too long or using too strong of a developer. Over-processing can lead to overly ashy or muddy-looking hair, or even damage. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and perform a strand test to determine the optimal processing time for your hair. Using a high-volume developer can also cause unnecessary lift and damage, so opt for a lower volume developer when possible.
What are some signs that my hair is over-toned with violet?
The most obvious sign of over-toning is a violet or purple cast to your hair. This is especially noticeable in lighter sections of the hair. It can range from a subtle lavender tint to a more pronounced purple hue, depending on the strength of the toner and the porosity of your hair.
Another indicator is that your hair might appear dull or ashy. This happens when the violet pigment overpowers the natural warmth in your hair, resulting in a flat, lifeless color. The hair may also feel dry or brittle due to the chemical process involved in toning, especially if the toner was left on for too long or used with a high-volume developer.
How can I fix hair that has been over-toned with violet?
If your hair has been over-toned and has a purple or ashy cast, the first step is to wash it with a clarifying shampoo. Clarifying shampoo helps to strip away the excess pigment without causing further damage. You may need to wash your hair several times to gradually remove the unwanted violet tones.
If the purple cast is stubborn, you can try using a color-removing shampoo or a gentle bleach wash (a very diluted bleach solution applied for a short period). However, proceed with caution and carefully monitor your hair’s condition to avoid further damage. A warm-toned gloss or conditioner can also help to reintroduce warmth and balance out the cool tones.