Double process hair coloring, often abbreviated as “double process,” is a transformative hair coloring technique that involves two separate chemical services performed in a single appointment or across two separate appointments. It is primarily used to achieve significant lightening and/or vibrant colors, particularly when starting with darker hair. This technique is more complex and potentially damaging than single-process coloring, requiring a skilled stylist and meticulous care to maintain hair health.
Understanding the Core Concepts
The double process essentially involves lightening the hair (usually with bleach) followed by applying a toner or dye to achieve the desired final color. It’s essential to understand that this is not simply applying two different colors at once. The first process, typically bleaching, strips the hair of its natural pigment. The second process adds the new desired pigment back in.
The Bleaching Stage: Lifting the Pigment
Bleaching is the initial and often the most crucial step. This process uses chemicals to open the hair cuticle and dissolve the natural melanin, which determines the hair’s color. The goal is to lift the hair to a pale yellow or even white shade, depending on the desired final color. The lighter the base, the more vibrant and accurate the final color will be.
The level of lift required depends heavily on the starting hair color and the desired end result. Someone with naturally light brown hair will require less lifting than someone with black hair who wants to achieve platinum blonde. A stylist assesses the hair’s condition, color history, and desired outcome to determine the appropriate bleach strength and processing time.
Incorrect bleaching can lead to significant damage, including breakage, dryness, and an undesirable brassy or orange tone. This is why professional application and monitoring are essential.
The Toning/Coloring Stage: Adding the Desired Hue
Once the hair has been sufficiently lightened, the toner or color is applied. This is where the magic happens, transforming the bleached canvas into the final desired shade. Toner is specifically designed to neutralize unwanted undertones left after bleaching, such as yellow or orange. It also adds shine and dimension.
Color, on the other hand, is used to deposit the desired pigment. This could range from a subtle pastel shade to a bold, vibrant red or blue. The choice of toner or color depends entirely on the client’s desired outcome.
Semi-permanent, demi-permanent, or permanent colors can be used in this stage, depending on the desired longevity and the color itself. A semi-permanent color will gradually fade with each wash, while a permanent color will require touch-ups as the roots grow in.
Who is Double Process Hair Coloring For?
Double process coloring is ideal for individuals who:
- Have dark hair and want to achieve a significantly lighter shade (e.g., going from brunette to blonde).
- Desire vivid, unnatural hair colors like pink, purple, or blue, which require a very light base to show up vibrantly.
- Want to correct uneven or brassy tones in their already lightened hair.
However, it’s not suitable for everyone. Individuals with severely damaged or very fine hair may not be good candidates, as the process can further weaken the hair. A thorough consultation with a stylist is crucial to determine suitability.
The Risks and Challenges
While the results can be stunning, double process hair coloring comes with inherent risks and challenges:
Damage and Breakage
Bleaching is inherently damaging to the hair. It weakens the hair shaft, making it more prone to breakage, dryness, and split ends. Over-processing can lead to severe damage that may require significant cutting or even prevent further coloring treatments.
Uneven Results
If the bleaching process is not performed evenly, the final color can be patchy or uneven. This is particularly common when dealing with hair that has been previously colored or has varying porosity.
Scalp Irritation
The chemicals used in bleaching can cause scalp irritation, burning, or even allergic reactions. This is why a patch test is often recommended before the full treatment.
Maintenance
Double process hair requires significant maintenance to keep it healthy and vibrant. This includes regular deep conditioning treatments, using color-safe shampoos and conditioners, and minimizing heat styling. Touch-ups are also necessary to maintain the desired color and address root regrowth.
The Process, Step-by-Step
Here’s a general overview of what to expect during a double process hair coloring appointment:
Consultation
The stylist will thoroughly assess your hair’s condition, color history, and desired outcome. They will discuss the potential risks and challenges and recommend the best approach for achieving your desired result while minimizing damage. This stage often involves a strand test to evaluate how your hair will react to the bleach.
Bleaching Application
The stylist will carefully apply the bleach to your hair, starting with the areas that need the most lightening. The bleach will be left on for a specified amount of time, monitored closely to prevent over-processing.
Rinsing and Toning/Coloring
Once the hair has reached the desired level of lift, the bleach will be rinsed out thoroughly. A toner or color will then be applied to neutralize unwanted tones and/or deposit the desired pigment.
Treatment and Styling
After the toner/color has processed, the hair will be rinsed again and treated with a deep conditioner to help restore moisture and strength. The hair will then be styled as desired.
Choosing the Right Stylist
The success of a double process coloring treatment depends heavily on the skill and experience of the stylist. Here’s what to look for when choosing a stylist:
Experience with Double Process
Look for a stylist who specializes in or has extensive experience with double process coloring. Ask to see their portfolio of before-and-after photos.
Knowledge of Hair Chemistry
A good stylist understands the chemistry of hair and how different products and processes affect it. They can assess your hair’s condition and choose the appropriate bleach strength and processing time to minimize damage.
Communication Skills
The stylist should be able to clearly explain the process, potential risks, and expected results. They should also be willing to answer your questions and address your concerns.
Reputation
Read online reviews and ask for referrals from friends or family who have had successful double process treatments.
Aftercare and Maintenance
Proper aftercare is crucial for maintaining the health and vibrancy of double-processed hair:
Use Color-Safe Products
Invest in high-quality shampoos and conditioners specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are designed to be gentle and prevent color fading.
Deep Condition Regularly
Double-processed hair is prone to dryness and breakage, so regular deep conditioning treatments are essential. Use a moisturizing hair mask at least once a week.
Minimize Heat Styling
Heat styling can further damage already weakened hair. Try to air dry your hair whenever possible and use heat protectant spray when using styling tools.
Protect from the Sun
Sun exposure can fade hair color and cause further damage. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when spending time outdoors.
Regular Trims
Get regular trims to remove split ends and prevent breakage from traveling up the hair shaft.
Consider Professional Treatments
Ask your stylist about professional treatments like Olaplex or keratin treatments, which can help to strengthen and repair damaged hair.
Alternatives to Double Process
If you’re concerned about the potential damage of double process coloring, there are some alternative options to consider:
Highlights/Balayage
These techniques involve lightening only certain sections of the hair, which can be less damaging than bleaching the entire head.
Lowlights
Adding darker strands of color can create dimension and depth without requiring extensive lightening.
Color Depositing Products
These products deposit color onto the hair without lifting the natural pigment. They are a good option for adding temporary color or enhancing existing color.
Gradual Lightening
Instead of trying to achieve a dramatic color change in one appointment, consider gradually lightening your hair over several months. This can be less damaging in the long run.
Common Misconceptions About Double Process
There are several misconceptions about double process hair coloring that are worth clarifying:
It’s always extremely damaging: While double process can be damaging, the level of damage depends on several factors, including the stylist’s skill, the products used, and the hair’s condition. Proper aftercare can also significantly minimize damage.
It’s only for going blonde: While double process is often used for lightening hair, it can also be used to achieve vibrant, unnatural colors on any hair color.
It can be done at home: While DIY hair coloring is tempting, double process is best left to the professionals. The risks of damage and uneven results are much higher when done at home.
It’s a one-time treatment: Double process hair requires ongoing maintenance to keep it healthy and vibrant. This includes regular touch-ups, deep conditioning, and using color-safe products.
Cost Considerations
Double process hair coloring is typically more expensive than single-process coloring due to the time, skill, and products involved. The cost can vary depending on several factors, including:
- The salon’s location and reputation
- The stylist’s experience
- The length and thickness of your hair
- The complexity of the desired color
- The products used
Be sure to get a quote from your stylist before the treatment to avoid any surprises. Remember that investing in a skilled stylist and high-quality products can help to minimize damage and ensure a better result.
Conclusion
Double process hair coloring is a powerful technique that can transform your look and achieve stunning results. However, it’s essential to understand the risks and challenges involved and to choose a skilled stylist who can minimize damage and achieve your desired outcome. With proper aftercare and maintenance, you can keep your double-processed hair healthy, vibrant, and beautiful. Always prioritize hair health and have open communication with your stylist to ensure the best possible experience.
What exactly is double process hair coloring?
Double process hair coloring, also known as a double process color correction, is a technique that involves two separate chemical processes to achieve the desired hair color. This usually means first lightening the hair, often with bleach, to create a blank canvas, and then applying a toner or dye to deposit the desired color. This is necessary when a significant color change is desired, especially when going lighter or achieving a vibrant, unnatural color on darker hair.
Unlike single-process coloring, which lifts and deposits color in one step, the double process allows for more control and precision over the final result. This is crucial for preventing brassiness, uneven tones, and damage to the hair. It’s also essential for achieving pastel shades, vibrant reds, or any shade that requires a lighter base than the starting hair color.
Who is double process hair coloring best suited for?
Double process hair coloring is typically the best option for individuals with darker hair who want to achieve a significantly lighter color, such as platinum blonde or pastel shades. It’s also suitable for those seeking vivid, unnatural colors like blues, greens, or purples, as these often require a light base to truly pop. Those with previously colored hair looking for a major color correction may also benefit from this technique.
However, double processing isn’t for everyone. Individuals with already damaged or fragile hair should exercise extreme caution, as the process can be harsh and potentially lead to further damage. It’s always best to consult with a professional colorist to assess your hair’s health and determine if double processing is the right choice for you and your desired color goal.
What are the potential risks and side effects of double process coloring?
The primary risk associated with double process coloring is hair damage. Bleaching, the first step, can weaken the hair shaft, leading to dryness, breakage, and split ends. Overlapping bleach on previously treated hair can cause severe damage and even hair loss. Improper application or using too high a volume developer can exacerbate these issues.
Other potential side effects include scalp irritation or allergic reactions to the chemicals used. Furthermore, achieving the desired color can sometimes require multiple sessions, increasing the risk of damage. It’s crucial to choose an experienced colorist who understands how to minimize damage and protect the hair’s integrity throughout the process. Thorough aftercare, including moisturizing treatments, is essential for maintaining hair health.
How long does a double process hair coloring appointment typically take?
A double process hair coloring appointment can be quite lengthy, typically taking anywhere from 3 to 6 hours, depending on the length, thickness, and current color of the hair. The first step, lightening the hair, can take a significant amount of time, especially when lifting several levels. The stylist will need to carefully monitor the lightening process to ensure even lift and prevent damage.
After the lightening process is complete, the toner or dye is applied, which usually takes an additional 30 to 60 minutes. This is followed by a wash, deep conditioning treatment, and styling. It’s best to block out a considerable portion of your day when scheduling a double process appointment and to communicate clearly with your stylist about your desired outcome and any time constraints.
How much does double process hair coloring typically cost?
Double process hair coloring is generally more expensive than single-process coloring due to the increased time, skill, and product required. The cost can vary widely depending on several factors, including the salon’s location, the stylist’s experience, the length and thickness of your hair, and the specific products used. Expect to pay anywhere from $150 to $500 or more.
When considering the cost, it’s important to factor in the potential for multiple sessions to achieve the desired color, as well as the cost of necessary aftercare products and treatments. While it may be tempting to opt for a cheaper option, investing in a skilled colorist who prioritizes hair health is crucial to avoid costly and potentially irreversible damage.
What kind of aftercare is required after double process hair coloring?
Aftercare is crucial for maintaining the health and color vibrancy of double-processed hair. Hydration is key, so using moisturizing shampoos, conditioners, and deep conditioning treatments is essential. Look for products specifically designed for color-treated hair, as these are often sulfate-free and formulated to protect the color.
Minimizing heat styling is also highly recommended, as excessive heat can further dry out and damage the hair. When heat styling is necessary, use a heat protectant spray. Regular trims are also important to remove split ends and keep the hair looking healthy. Additionally, consider using a color-depositing conditioner or toner to maintain the desired shade and prevent brassiness.
Can I do double process hair coloring at home?
While it might be tempting to save money by attempting double process hair coloring at home, it is strongly discouraged, especially for those without professional experience. The process involves harsh chemicals that can cause significant damage if not used correctly. Uneven application, over-processing, and scalp burns are all potential risks of DIY double processing.
Furthermore, achieving the desired color result requires a trained eye and a deep understanding of color theory. A professional colorist can assess your hair’s health, formulate the appropriate bleach and toner mixture, and apply the products in a way that minimizes damage and maximizes color vibrancy. Investing in a professional is almost always worth it to avoid costly color corrections and potential hair damage.